Advances in Women’s Intimate Apparel Technology Edited by Winnie Yu

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Advances in Women’s Intimate Apparel Technology
Edited by Winnie Yu
Advances in Women’s Intimate Apparel Technology

Contents
List of contributors ix
Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles xi

Part One Intimate apparel material science 1
1 Advanced textiles for intimate apparel 3
J. Yip
1.1 Fibers and yarns 3
1.2 Moisture management and coolness 7
1.3 Sustainability 10
1.4 Fabrics 11
1.5 Fabric finishing 17
1.6 Conclusion 20
References 20
2 Narrow fabric elastic tapes 25
J. Yip
2.1 Functional innovations in narrow fabric elastic tapes 25
2.2 Aesthetic innovations in narrow fabric elastic tapes 31
2.3 Conclusion 33
References 34
3 Innovative accessories for intimate apparel 37
J. Yip
3.1 Introduction 37
3.2 Underwires 37
3.3 Hook-and-eye tapes 43
3.4 Conclusion 50
References 51

Part Two Seamless technologies for intimate apparel 53
4 Seamless knitting of intimate apparel 55
F. Lau and W. Yu
4.1 Introduction 55
4.2 Benefits of seamless knitted intimate apparel 57
4.3 Limitations of seamless knitting technology 58
4.4 Fit issues of seamless knitted garments 58
4.5 Knitting parameters 59
4.6 Future development in seamless circular knitting 66
References 66
5 Innovations in the bra cup molding processes 69
K.L. Yick, S.P. Ng and L. Wu
5.1 Introduction 69
5.2 Bra molding process 69
5.3 Mold head design 71
5.4 Evaluation of cup shape conformity 76
5.5 Optimization of molding process parameters 77
5.6 Moldable materials 80
5.7 Recent innovations in bra molding 82
5.8 Further consideration in breast shapes 82
5.9 Summary and conclusions 84
Acknowledgments 84
References 84
6 Sew-free technologies for intimate apparel 89
K.L. Yick and C.Y. Hui
6.1 Introduction 89
6.2 Ultrasonic welding 89
6.3 Adhesive bonding 94
6.4 Attachment of ornamentation 98
6.5 Laser cutting, engraving, and welding 100
6.6 Recent innovations of sew-free technologies 103
Acknowledgments 105
References 105

Part Three Scientific research on intimate apparel 107
7 Bra fitting assessment and alteration 109
N. Luk and W. Yu
7.1 Introduction 109
7.2 Bra fit basics 109
7.3 Fitting checklist 111
7.4 The fit team 113
7.5 Bra samples 117
7.6 Fitting image-capture systems 119
7.7 Fitting test 121
7.8 Fit alteration 129
7.9 Summary and conclusion 132
Acknowledgment 132
References 132
8 Sports bras and breast kinetics 135
W. Yu and J. Zhou
8.1 Introduction 135
8.2 Structure and function of sports bras 135
8.3 Kinetics of female breasts 139
8.4 Previous work on breast movement 140
8.5 Criteria for a well-designed effective sports bra 143
8.6 Conclusion 144
References 145
9 Finite element modeling of bra fitting 147
Y. Cai, W. Yu and L. Chen
9.1 Introduction 147
9.2 Previous work 147
9.3 Current challenges 150
9.4 Methods for finite element modeling of human breasts 151
9.5 Methods for the finite element modeling of garments or bras 160
9.6 Finite element modeling of bra fitting 161
9.7 Summary and conclusions 163
Acknowledgment 164
References 165
Index 169

Advanced textiles for intimate apparel
J. Yip
Institute of Textiles and Clothing, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong, China

1.1 Fibers and yarns
Cotton, silk, rayon, nylon, polyester, and spandex are common types of fibers currently used in intimate apparel. However, new types of fibers offer new possibilities to intimate apparel designers. Their important properties include (1) performance and versatility, (2) moisture management and coolness, and (3) sustainability. Fibers and yarns that possess these properties are discussed in the following sections.

1.1.1 Performance and versatility
Intimate apparel products should be versatile; for instance, they should have easy-care properties, be light weight, be comfortable, provide freedom of movement, be durable, and even have antibacterial or antiodor properties. Major fiber manufacturers such as Nylstar, Invista, Toray, and Lenzing have launched different types of fibers that are versatile and suitable for use in intimate apparel.


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