Handbook of Footwear Design and Manufacture Edited by A. Luximon

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Handbook of Footwear Design and Manufacture
Edited by A. Luximon
Handbook of Footwear Design and Manufacture

Contents
Contributor contact details xi
Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles xv

Part I Fundamentals of footwear anatomy 1
1 The anatomy of the human foot 3
L.K. Chan, The University of Hong Kong, P. R. China
1.1 Introduction 3
1.2 The bones of the human foot 3
1.3 The joints of the human foot 11
1.4 The muscles and tendons of the human foot 12
1.5 The arches of the human foot 18
1.6 The neurovasculature of the human foot 20
1.7 The surface anatomy of the human foot 22
1.8 Conclusion 26
1.9 Sources of further information 26
2 Foot biomechanics and gait 27
T. Schmeltzpfenning, University of Tübingen, Germany and
T. Brauner, Technical University of München, Germany
2.1 Introduction 27
2.2 Gait 27
2.3 Kinetics 30
2.4 Kinematics 35
2.5 Dynamic morphology 39
2.6 Future trends 41
2.7 Conclusion 42
2.8 Sources of further information and advice 43
2.9 References 44
3 Foot development in childhood and adolescence 49
B. Fritz, University of Tübingen, Germany and M. Mauch,
Praxisklinik Rennbahn AG, Switzerland
3.1 Introduction 49
3.2 Development of the foot during childhood and adolescence 50
3.3 Grouping foot types 61
3.4 Conclusion 67
3.5 References 68
4 Foot models and measurements 72
S. Xiong, Ulsan National Institute of Science and Technology,
South Korea and J. Zhao, Wuhan University, P. R. China
4.1 Introduction 72
4.2 Foot anthropometric measurements, foot variations and
classifications of foot types 73
4.3 Foot shape modeling 80
4.4 Conclusion 85
4.5 Sources of further information 86
4.6 Acknowledgements 86
4.7 References 86
5 Foot problems and their implications for footwear design 90
E. Y. L. Ng, Pedorthic Technology Ltd, P. R. China
5.1 Introduction 90
5.2 Common foot problems and their impact on footwear design 91
5.3 Conclusion 114
5.4 References 114

Part II Footwear design 115
6 Shoe design development 117
O. Pelizzari, Nuova academia Di Belle arti Milan, Italy
6.1 Introduction 117
6.2 Fashion trends 117
6.3 Stages of the design process 118
6.4 Case studies 121
6.5 Conclusion 127
6.6 References 127
7 Foot sketch templates and footwear design 128
G. X. Yuan and K. Jiang, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University,
P. R. China
7.1 Introduction 128
7.2 Anatomy of the human foot 128
7.3 Elements of foot sketching 137
7.4 Materials and tools 142
7.5 Styles of foot sketch 146
7.6 Conclusion 148
7.7 References 148
8 Footwear drawing templates and shoe design 150
W. C. Wong, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, P. R. China
and The Chinese University of Hong Kong, P. R. China, and A.
Luximon, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, P. R. China
8.1 Introduction 150
8.2 Using a template 152
8.3 Colouring and shadow 167
8.4 Recommendations 173
8.5 Sources of further information 174

Part III Shoe lasts and other aspects of footwear
manufacture 175
9 Design and manufacture of shoe lasts 177
X. ma and A. Luximon, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University,
P. R. China
9.1 Introduction 177
9.2 Classification of shoe lasts 178
9.3 Shoe last dimensions and terminology 180
9.4 The relationship between the foot and the shoe last 182
9.5 Shoe last design 186
9.6 Manufacture of shoe lasts 191
9.7 Sources of further information and advice 193
9.8 Acknowledgements 196
9.9 Bibliography 196
10 Sizing and grading of shoe lasts 197
Y. Luximon and A. Luximon, The Hong Kong Polytechnic
University, P. R. China
10.1 Introduction 197
10.2 Sizing and grading 198
10.3 Common sizing and grading scales 199
10.4 Future trends 212
10.5 Conclusion 213
10.6 References 213
11 Shoe-last design templates 216
Y. Luximon and A. Luximon, The Hong Kong Polytechnic
University, P. R. China
11.1 Introduction 216
11.2 Definitions 217
11.3 Shoe-last templates 224
11.4 Conclusion 224
11.5 Sources of further information and advice 224
11.6 Acknowledgements 224
11.7 References 235
12 Shoe-last design for mass-customized footwear 236
Y. Zhang and A. Luximon, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University,
P. R. China
12.1 Introduction 236
12.2 Requirements for customized footwear 237
12.3 Mass-customized footwear design 239
12.4 Processes in shoe-last mass customization 239
12.5 Shoe-last selection based on fit rating 250
12.6 Conclusion 252
12.7 Acknowledgements 252
12.8 References 252
13 The footwear business and advertising 254
Y. Luximon, M. Bhatia and A. Luximon, The Hong Kong
Polytechnic University, P. R. China
13.1 The footwear industry 254
13.2 The global footwear market 255
13.3 Global consumption 256
13.4 Advertising 258
13.5 Footwear advertising 258
13.6 Conclusion 263
13.7 References 263
14 The environmental impact of footwear and footwear materials 266
S. S. Muthu, SGS (HK) Ltd, P. R. China
14.1 Introduction 266
14.2 Footwear and footwear materials 267
14.3 Importance of the environmental impact of footwear and footwear materials 268
14.4 Assessing the environmental impact of footwear products 268
14.5 Environmental impact studies of footwear and footwear materials 271
14.6 Conclusion and future trends 275
14.7 References 276

Part IV Applications 281
15 Footwear for cold weather conditions 283
K. Kukl ane, Lund University, Sweden
15.1 Introduction 283
15.2 The feet in cold environments 284
15.3 Feet and footwear-related injuries in cold environments 287
15.4 Design requirements of footwear for cold environments 290
15.5 Footwear insulation 296
15.6 Footwear evaporative resistance measurements 301
15.7 Moisture management in footwear 302
15.8 Effect of socks on feet insulation, moisture management and comfort 308
15.9 References 311
16 Textiles for protective military footwear 318
F. Wang, Swiss Federal Laboratories for Materials Science and
Technology, Switzerland
16.1 Introduction 318
16.2 Key requirements for military footwear 319
16.3 The role of textiles in military footwear 326
16.4 Examples of military footwear 330
16.5 Conclusion 334
16.6 Future trends 335
16.7 Sources of further information 335
16.8 References 336
17 Textiles and other materials for orthopaedic footwear insoles 341
K. L. Yick , The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, P. R. China
and C. Y. Tse, Centre for Orthopaedic Surgery, P. R. China
17.1 Introduction 341
17.2 Key requirements for orthopaedic footwear insoles 342
17.3 Types of textiles and materials for orthopaedic footwear insoles 345
17.4 Examples of orthopaedic footwear insoles 356
17.5 Test methods and instruments 362
17.6 Future trends 364
17.7 Sources of further information and advice 367
17.8 Acknowledgements 367
17.9 References 368
18 Design issues in geriatric footwear 372
A. E. Helfand, Temple University, USA
18.1 Introduction 372
18.2 Geriatric foot problems: etiological and epidemiological factors 373
18.3 Changes in the foot in relation to age 376
18.4 Complicating foot problems 383
18.5 Psychosocial and psychological considerations 386
18.6 Considerations in shoe design 387
18.7 Therapeutic footwear 395
18.8 Conclusion 396
18.9 References 397
Index 401

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