Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials By I. Viļumsone-Nemes

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Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials
By I. Viļumsone-Nemes
Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials

Contents
About the author x
Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles xi
Preface xxi
1 Introduction to cutting room operations in garment manufacture 1
1.1 Introduction 1
1.2 Storage, registration and inspection of materials 1
1.3 Lay planning and marker making processes 1
1.4 The fabric spreading process 2
1.5 The fabric cutting process 3
1.6 Fusing cut components 4
1.7 Final stages of cutting operations 5
2 Initial preparation and quality control of textile materials in textile cutting operations 6
2.1 Introduction 6
2.2 Unloading delivered textile materials 7
2.3 Sorting and counting the delivered textile materials 8
2.4 Storage of textile materials in a warehouse 9
2.5 Quality control of stored textile materials 9
2.6 Influence of textile faults on the industrial manufacture of garments 10
3 Lay planning and marker making in textile cutting operations 13
3.1 Introduction 13
3.2 Basic principles of the lay planning process 13
3.3 Automation of the lay planning process and cutting room operations 15
3.4 General characteristics of the marker making process 16
3.5 Influence of textile material properties on the marker making process 17
3.6 Placing pattern pieces of fusible components in a marker 20
3.7 Creation of interlining markers 22
3.8 Automated marker making process 23
3.9 Links to recommended websites 24
4 Principles and methods of textile spreading 26
4.1 Introduction 26
4.2 General characteristics of the spreading process 26
4.3 Fabric spreading modes and their application 31
4.4 Dealing with different kinds of spread 35
4.5 Fabric quality issues 39
5 Manual spreading of textile materials 46
5.1 Introduction 46
5.2 Characteristics of the manual spreading process 46
5.3 Manual spreading process modes 52
5.4 Disadvantages of the manual spreading process 55
5.5 Equipment for manual spreading 56
6 Automated spreading of textile materials 60
6.1 Introduction 60
6.2 The spreading table 60
6.3 The spreading machine and its main parts 61
6.4 Control features in the spreading process 68
6.5 Semi-automated and fully automated spreading processes 70
6.6 Spreading machine for tubular materials 71
6.7 Spreading modes in the automated spreading process 71
6.8 Automated fabric fault registration and management systems 73
6.9 Comparing manual and automated spreading processes 75
6.10 Links to recommended websites 76
7 The manual textile cutting process 77
7.1 Introduction 77
7.2 Characteristics of the manual cutting process 77
7.3 Notches and cloth marking drills 81
7.4 Accuracy problems in the manual cutting process 85
8 Manual cutting equipment in textile cutting operations 91
8.1 Introduction 91
8.2 The straight knife cutting machine 91
8.3 The round (rotary) knife cutting machine 94
8.4 The small round knife cutting machine 97
8.5 The band knife cutting machine 97
8.6 The fabric drilling machine 101
8.7 The hot notching machine 103
8.8 Links to recommended websites 103
9 Automated cutting of textile materials 104
9.1 Introduction 104
9.2 Automated cutting systems and their main parts 105
9.3 Automated knife cutting systems 107
9.4 Knife cutting systems for textiles 116
9.5 Automated laser cutting systems 117
9.6 Automated water-jet cutting systems 120
9.7 Automated plasma cutting systems 123
9.8 Automated ultrasonic cutting systems 124
9.9 Multi-purpose cutters 126
9.10 Links to recommended websites 127
10 Placement of equipment in the textile cutting room 128
10.1 Introduction 128
10.2 Placement of manual spreading and cutting equipment/workstations in the cutting room 128
10.3 Placement of automated spreading and cutting equipment/workstations in the cutting room 129
10.4 Lay storage systems for automated cutting processes 131
10.5 Links to recommended websites 133
11 Fusing cut textile components 134
11.1 Introduction 134
11.2 General characteristics of interlinings 135
11.3 Fusing presses and their main parts 138
11.4 Fusing quality problems and their prevention 145
11.5 Links to recommended websites 148
12 Final work operations in the cutting process for textiles 149
12.1 Introduction 149
12.2 Causes of quality problems in cut components 149
12.3 Quality control of cut components 150
12.4 Re-cutting faulty components 153
12.5 Numbering cut components 154
12.6 Sorting and bundling cut components 154
13 Manual marker making, spreading and cutting of striped fabrics 156
13.1 Introduction 156
13.2 Marker making for styles made from materials with stripes 156
13.3 Spreading and cutting process 164
14 Manual marker making, spreading and cutting materials with check patterns 171
14.1 Introduction 171
14.2 Marker making for styles from materials with check patterns 171
14.3 The spreading and cutting processes 179
15 Manual marker making, spreading and cutting fabrics with motif patterns 186
15.1 Introduction 186
15.2 Marker making for styles made from materials with motif pattern 186
15.3 The spreading and cutting processes 188
16 Manual marker making, spreading and cutting fabrics with border patterns 194
16.1 Introduction 194
16.2 Marker making for styles made from materials with a border pattern 194
16.3 The spreading and cutting processes 196
17 Manual marker making, spreading and cutting narrow lace 199
17.1 Introduction 199
17.2 General characteristics of narrow lace 199
17.3 Characteristics of lingerie components cut from lace 200
17.4 Placement of the pattern on the components 201
17.5 Marker making styles directly on fabric 201
17.6 The spreading process 204
17.7 The cutting process 207
17.8 Links to recommended websites 207
18 Spreading and cutting fabrics with pile 208
18.1 Introduction 208
18.2 Marker making for styles made from materials with pile 208
18.3 Spreading and cutting fabrics with low-cut pile 208
18.4 Spreading and cutting fabrics with high-cut pile 210
19 Problems in spreading and cutting intricate fabrics and methods to prevent them 212
19.1 Introduction 212
19.2 Marker making directly on a particular pattern 212
19.3 Precise coordination of patterns in all plies of a spread 213
19.4 Pin tables to prevent displacement of multi-ply spreads 214
19.5 Automated systems to match patterns of intricate fabrics 216
19.6 Links for recommended websites 220
Glossary 221
Index 229

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