Textiles, Identity and Innovation: Design the Future pdf Editors Gianni Montagna & Cristina Carvalho

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Textiles, Identity and Innovation: Design the Future
Editors Gianni Montagna & Cristina Carvalho
Textiles, Identity and Innovation: Design the Future

Table of contents
Preface IX
Editor biographies XI
Committee members XIII
1. Textile
1.1.Weaving and knitting
The use of textiles in AnneWilson and Kathrin Stumreich’s work 3
I.P.G. Jorge
Selection and training of a panel of evaluators for sensory analysis of tactile comfort in Brazil 9
R.N. Nagamatsu, M.J. Abreu, C.D. Santiago & I. Braga
The interactivity between sales channels on omni-channel retail 15
M.J. Abreu & C.D. Miranda
Technological evolution in fashion product knitwear companies 21
G. Montagna, L. Piccinini & M.P. Carvalhinha
Pilot study to convert an existing model into a zero waste pattern and cutting system 29
A. Simões & R. Almendra
The textile in seismic architecture: A reinforcement solution 35
A.J. Morais, J. Afonso &A.D. Basto
1.2. Surface, digital and virtual textiles
An analysis of 3D printed textile structures 41
E. Grain
Fashion illustration on the surface design products created by designer Ronaldo Fraga 49
R. Bessa &A.M. Barbosa
When clothing comfort meets aesthetics 55
L.L. Matté, A.C. Broega & M.E.B. Pinto
Sublimation, color and emotion 61
F.M. Marques
Digital imaging: Textile surfaces and the virtual environment 67
L. Santos & G. Montagna
Costume and characters’ construction in cinematographic fiction and drama 73
C.M. Figueiredo &A. Cabral

1.3. Textile products
The fabric of belonging: Place-based textile community engagement 81
A. Marr
Telaio 31: A hybridization between creativity, experimental and industrial process 89
P. Ranzo, P. Maddaluno & G. Gentile
A new way for the bobbin lace tradition 95
I. Bieger, C. Carvalho & G. Montagna
Comparative study of the main physical properties of denim fabrics used in jeans manufacture 99
L.N. Souza, R.A. Sanches, H.A. Gomes, C.R.G. Vicentini & F.M. Moreira da Silva
Textile elements in a design project of children’s furniture 107
C. Salvador
Ergonomic clothing design for care-dependent elderly women 113
A. Caldas, M. Carvalho, H. Lopes & M. Souza
Textile design experiments for automotive innovation 119
M.A. Sbordone, G. Gentile & G. Cesaro
Comparative study of the manufacturing technologies of Sports Bras aiming at adjusting
the productive processes of the Brazilian apparel enterprises to the model Industry 4.0 125
F.M.P. Silva, A.Y.S. Duarte,W.C. Ming, R.A. Sanches & F.M. Silva
2. Identity
2.1. Textile art
Our past and future relationship with textiles 133
C. Gale
Focus on textiles – performance studies 139
Â. Orbay &A. Mendes
Brazil’s social representation of Dom João VI in the literary work of Oliveira Lima:
Fashion, habits, customs and urban aspects 145
M. Araújo, M.S. Barros de Held & J.P. Pereira Marcicano
Textile design in lace: Creative practice based on collections study 153
V. Felippi, E. Rütschilling & G. Perry
Fashion: Spokesman of a generation that will not be silent 161
V. Szabo, M. Mendes dos Santos, P. Maria da Silva Costa, M.S. Barros de Held & J.P. Pereira Marcicano
Before textile • after wall 169
J. Afonso
A woven language: Tais as an expression of Timorese culture identity 173
M.J. Sacchetti
Textiles as media for visual identity 179
M. Neves
2.2. Culture and craft
Textile semantics: Perception and memory 187
S. Andrew
Multiculturalism in fashion design: A case study of three emergent designers in Macau 195
A. Cardoso & J. Cordeiro
Textiles as a tool for social cohesion and active aging in social projects: Cases exploring
the creative dimension of participants 201
A. Souza, R. Almendra, R. Porto &A. Vasconcelos
Cultural theory and textile manufacture 207
L. Tigre & M. Araujo
IN-Between. Designing within complexity 215
F. Vacca & C. Cavanna
Cultural territories: Textile constructions in the work of the stylist André Lima 221
O. Maneschy &Y. Maia
Ornamentation of textile surfaces: Proposal of classification and application in fashion
events in Minas Gerais, Brazil 227
W.G. Amorim & M.R.A.C. Dias
The charm of nonchalant elegance. Stories of Sicilian tailoring for men 233
G.M. Conti
Warps and textures in symbology 239
A.A. Quintas
2.3. Marketing and consumption
Design Camp LOGO UFSC: A proposition of immersive experience in the textile
market for design students 247
N.C. Salvi, I.L. Guedes, F.P. Pasqualotto, L.S.R. Gomez & M.M. Gonçalves
Genderless clothing issues in fashion 255
B. Reis, M. Pereira, S. Azevedo, N. Jerónimo & R. Miguel
U.MAKE.ID fashion sourcing platform project 261
M. Pereira, B. Reis, L. Pina, R. Miguel & P. Rafael
Making textiles talk: An experimental e-textile workshop 267
S. U˘gur Yavuz & N. Cohen
Footwear customization: A win-win shared experience 273
N. Oliveira & J. Cunha
Competitiveness in the textile industry due to electronic commerce 281
D.V. Leal, G.L. Toledo & D.K. Junior
Charles FrederickWorth and the birth of Haute Couture: Fashion design and textile renewal
in the times of conspicuous consumption 287
M.J. Pereira Neto

3. Innovation
3.1. Technical and smart textiles
Shape memory alloy knitted fabrics: Functional fabrics that work 297
K. Eschen & J. Abel
SunPlumLimeBerry, a collaborative textile design and manufacturing illuminated
wool carpet project 305
S. Heffernan
Smart textiles in the performing arts 311
A. Martinez, M. Honauer, H. Sandhaus & E. Hornecker
Functionalization of cotton fabric with chitosan microspheres containing triclosan 319
L.G. Magalhães, C.S.A. de Lima, S.M. da Costa, A.C.S. Santos & S.A. da Costa
Smart textiles in architecture 325
A.C. d’Oliveira, G. Montagna & J. Nicolau
Technological clothing as an element of innovation: Survey of young Portuguese users 331
C. Carvalho, G. Montagna, H. Carvalho &A. Catarino
3.2. Sustainable textiles
Sustainability of textile and fashion supply chain: Case study approach 339
S. Azevedo, R. Miguel & P. Mesquita
The possible use of the fish leather in a lingerie confection: Approach to the Amazon 347
T. Figueredo & N. Silva
Traditional techniques of Portuguese tapestry as the basis of a sustainable construction for fashion 353
C. Morais, G. Montagna & M. Veloso
Sustainable textiles – A review on strategies for product lifetime extension 359
V. Januário, R. Salvado & S. U˘gur Yavuz
Sustainability through traditional processes: Strategy of “Salva a Lã Portuguesa”
for revival of natural wool 367
M. Pacheco & E. Bazaraite
Design of sustainable textiles through biological systems and materials – innovative
narratives within the circular economy 373
G.S. Forman & C. Carvalho
Textile sustainability: Reuse of wastes from the textile and clothing industry in Brazil 379
C. Jordão, A.C. Broega & S. Martins
In direction to sustainable textile roofs in architecture and design 385
C. Alho
3.3. Teaching, research and education
The tactual experience of textiles in fashion design education 393
I. Simoes, F. Silva & N. Nogueira
Teaching sustainable fashion and textiles 399
T.B. Lobo
Methodology to study the creativity of Portuguese fashion designers 407
J. Barata, R. Miguel & S. Azevedo
The teaching of materials in fashion design: The importance of holistic platforms 413
A.M. Luís & L. Santos
Design – Non-fabrics – A practical case for the Castelo Branco Embroidery 419
A.M.P. Fernandes & C. Carvalho
The relevance of different players on the design project: Garment, identity, motivation
and social innovation 425
J. Oenning, J. Cunha, J.B. Garcia Jr
Graphic design and textiles: Visual appropriations in Sebastião Rodrigues’work 433
E. Rolo
Sustainable fashion design: Social responsibility and cross-pollination! 439
F. Moreira da Silva
Towards artistic children’s education with textiles: A K10 challenge 445
M.J. Delgado & I.D. Almeida
Author index 453

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