Reverse Design: A Current Scientific Vision From the International Fashion and Design Congress PDF by Ana Cristina Broega, Joana Cunha, Helder Carvalho, Manuel Blanco, Guillermo García-Badell & Diana Lucía Goméz-Chacón

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Reverse Design: A Current Scientific Vision From the International Fashion and Design Congress
Edited by Ana Cristina Broega, Joana Cunha, Helder Carvalho, Manuel Blanco, Guillermo García-Badell & Diana Lucía Goméz-Chacón
Reverse Design: A Current Scientific Vision From the International Fashion and Design Congress

Table of contents
Preface xi
CIMODE 2018 committees xiii
Fashion and communication
Performative runway in backstage liquidity 3
A. Rabàdan & I. Bentz
From hair to cultivated leather—the use of Alexander McQueen’s genetic information 13
B.F. Pires & R.P. Cidreira
The relevance of sketches in fashion design 21
A. Moreira da Silva
Digital banners as shop windows: Narrative constructions of online fashion brands 27
D.V. Leal, D. Karam Jr. & M.C.P. Rodrigues
The influence of soap operas in Brazilian fashion today 37
T.C. Viana, A.A. Silva, A. Adverse, R. Ribeiro & A. Horta
The world and the fashion “al revés” in António Variações 45
M. Amaro
Facets of youth culture: Discursive construction of Ahlma fashion brand 53
B. Machado & M. Scoz
Fashion films: A semiotics approach, a multimodal signification 63
R. Effe 
 
The importance of language on the social medias of a brand 71
M.H. de Carvalho & F.A.H. de Carvalho
The effects of sense contained in the fashion advertising text: The Handred
brand and the reiteration of genderless concept 79
S.F. Bona & M. Scoz
Analysis of attributes in unisex and genderless clothing 87
B.M. Reis, R. Miguel, N.A. Jerónimo, M. Pereira & S. Azevedo
Embroidery: The narrative of the ribbon of the presentation of Arthur
Bispo do Rosário—confluences with contemporary visual artists 95
L.U. Dantas, U.S.T. Barbosa, G.M.J. Sales, H.A. Dieb & R.R. Marques
Eye tracking in fashion: An overview 103
A.P. Faria, B. Providência & J. Cunha
Fashion, identities and cultures
Semiology: Culture as a symbol system and western influences comparison before
and after the independence of 1947 113
L. Vignes
 
A geography of fashion, Medellín: 1900–1950 121
W. Cruz Bermeo
The Prêt-à-porter phenomenon and the boutiques in the dowtown area of Santiago, Chile 129
J. Vidal Miranda & P. Álvarez Caselli
Internationalism and exoticism in the image of Aline Romanones and Consuelo Crespi 137
D. Gennaioli
Reframing old age through design: An approach to promote empowerment 145
I. Rojas & B. Pino
Dolce and Gabbana and Louis Vuitton: A study on the effect of gender stereotyping
in the 21st century fashion campaigns 153
L. Watson
Fashion, identity and culture in the Chinese fashion system. China, inspiration
for Chinese fashion designers 161
R. Gaddi
The pleasurable dressing of Loewe: From the store of Martínez-Feduchi
to the showroom of Carvajal 169
A. Cano Redondo & A. Martínez-Medina
Signifying the ritual legends of Brazilian Afro Religions: Candomblé and Umbanda
in Teresina/Piauí/Brazil 177
L.C. de M. Tavares & V.P. de S. Araújo
Globalized brazilianness on the forming way of “Elementais” 183
G.R.R. Vieira
Class tourism, working-class porn and cultural appropriation in
fashion: An introduction 191
M. Glück
 
Affection sewn into hats: Identity, self-esteem, women’s social relations 199
G.P. Lenzi
The lace fabric of Bahia clothing: From artisanal to industrial 207
A. Okasaki
Fashion design and craftwork: Subjectivation policies in the contemporary scenario 215
A.R.V. Peroba & C. Mesquita
Chinese fashion, occidental fashion: A semiotic translation 223
Y. Pan
The fashion design as a contribution to the preservation of Nazaré culture
and costumes: 7 project 231
S. Moreira, M. Pereira, A. Cruchinho, J.M. Lucas & R. Miguel
DIY and the slow fashion movement: Sew for yourself 241
L. Barrocas, G. Bezerra & M.A.V. Rocha
Modes and Fashions of the colonial man from Minas Gerais: The indumentary
of the defendants of the inconfidence of Minas Gerais 247
A.F.B. Santos & A.P.X. Vilela
The aesthetics in fashion design and cultural studies 255
T. Lobo
The physiological aspects of senescence: Comfort and relationship with the clothing 263
M.D. Almeida, A.C. Broega & M. Moura
Fashion design through sustainability and material culture: An exploratory
and experimental study 271
R. Norogrando
Castelo Branco embroidery applied to clothing 279
A. Cruchinho, A.S. Marcelo, P. Peres & A. Moura
Female jeans: The aesthetic of Brazilian “popular fashion” 287
I. Braga, M.J. Abreu & M.M. Oliveira
The liberation of women in the 19th and early 20th centuries as seen
through costume 295
L. Luceño
The Minho traditional costume as cultural heritage in fashion design 303
S. Castro, J. Cunha & C. Morais
The casualisation and homogeneity of contemporary fashion 313
F. Spry
Product design
Practices of design: Understanding processes 323
A. Rabàdan
Contemporary textile products. Knitting as a fertile design ground for experimentation
with 3D technologies 331
G.M. Conti
Clothing as an architectural project 341
B. Alcoceba
Marking embroidery in colors: The creative fashion process in AMAC,
in São João dos Patos – MA 349
M.S. Lima, R.G. Noronha & L.R. da Silva
Miramar embroiderers, design and territory 357
F.P. Vallejos
Strategic approach to implement sustainability in the joineries of the city of
Uberlândia, Brazil 365
F. Moreira da Silva & J. Cardoso Braga
A proposed procedure to develop clothing for pregnant women 373
D.A.N. Mentone, R.H. Osava, S.H.A. Gomes, R.A. Sanches & A.Y.S. Duarte
Functional fashion focused on the needs of people with disabilities 381
L.N. Souza, S.H.A. Gomes, C.R.G. Vicentini, R.A. Sanches & A.Y.S. Duarte
Designing for emotions: Evaluation of the drooler, a toy for preschoolers 389
B. Providência, R. Brandão & P.B. Albuquerque
Creativity and industrial fashion design—reviews, analyses and connexions 399
J.A.B. Barata, R. Miguel & S. Azevedo
Procedures and guidelines for the instruction and execution of pattern making:
An analysis 407
P.A.A. Spaine, D.M. Brito, L.M. Pereira, N. Pinheiro & R.R. Andrade
Anthropometry and clothing for overweight and obese children: A
literature review 415
R. Campos & M.A. Carvalho
The materialization of fashion products: An experience of the textile behavior 421
P.M. Souza, M.M. Otani, P.P. Silva & I.C. Italiano
Design and redesign 429
G. Montagna & M.J. Delgado
Marketing and consumption
Psychographic segmentation of female fashion consumers in Portugal 437
B. Moreira & A. Azevedo
Taxhion. Model taxonomy clothing and accessories e-commerce 447
B. Alcoceba, M. García-Ergüín, R. García, D. de las Heras & M. Adsuara
Cultural values of minimalist fashion 455
A.P. de Miranda, I. Domingues & N. Souza
Emerging platforms for fashion design entrepreneurs: An assessment 463
C.E. Fernandes, L. Ribeiro, M.S. Silva, M. Pereira & M.J. Madeira
The use of online advertisement as a TXM branding methodology’s tool:
FARM’s case study 469
L.W. Ribeiro & L.S. Gomez
The influence of social network sites on digital branding 479
M. Barreto & L. Ribeiro
Teaching and education
Teaching design in real contexts to preserve local identity and memory 489
A.H. Grácio & C. Rijo
Immersive business simulation in footwear design education: A bridge for reality 497
A.M. Terroso, A. Moreno, N. Amorim, H. Palmares & J. Sampaio
Bounding fields of knowledge: Co-designing regional pottery of the Cávado sub-region
as a strategic potential of museological differentiation and product development 507
J. Sampaio, A. Baganha, F. Gomes & A.M. Terroso
A case study of didactic laboratory approach in fashion design education 515
X. Lin & A. Dell’Acqua
Feminine magazines and the development of the female labor force in Valparaiso:
Analysis of the graphic system of the Rosita magazine (1947–1972) as a didactic
strategy for the informal learning of sewing 521
F. Gonzalez, U. Bravo & C. Ruiz
Bê a Bá of sewing: Our online friend 529
L.C. de M. Tavares & J.P.C. de Brito
Professional education and the formation of garments factory in Brazil 537
V. Feldman & M.S.B. de Held
Complex geometry and patterns: Colonizing the surrounding space through
the costume 543
M.J. Climent Mondéjar, M.P. Moreno Moreno & A. Cano Redondo
Project thinking in fashion design: Strategies for facilitating cognitive and
metacognitive processes 551
M.C.F. Sanches & M.A.R. Silva
P.A.A. Spaine, D.M. Brito, L.M. Pereira, N. Pinheiro & R.R. Andrade
Interdisciplinarity: Creation of looks and techniques used by UFPE CAA students 567
A. Camargo & R. Alves
Active applied methodologies on fashion design teaching: Possibilities and challenges 575
L.E.F.S. Rebello, G.D. Marques & M. Mansur
Sustainability in fashion and design
 
Fashion that cares for the future 585
E. Araujo, I. Castro, I. Pinto & I. Araujo
Design, tradition and culture—past and future united to develop depressed regions 593
I. Oliveira & M.G. Guedes
Circular economy: An approach for the fashion industry 599
E. Pinheiro, S.M.B.D. Barcelos & A.C. de Francisco
Reversal logistics: Case study in the franchises O Boticário in the city of Itabuna-BA 607
E.N. Velanes
Sustainable fashion. Strategies for sustainability and new forms of value creation
in fashion and textile 615
M.A. Sbordone, L. Di Lucchio & R.A. Sanches
Generation Y’s sustainability attitude-behaviour gap 623
J.P. Bernardes, F. Ferreira, A.D. Marques & M. Nogueira
Collaborative economy: Case study of new business models 631
S.R. Fernandes, J.M. Lucas, M.J. Madeira, A.I.C. Barreiros & I.D. Honório
Imbrications and distances between the creative economy and the sustainability
of small fashion brands 637
U.S.T. Barbosa, H.A. Dieb, G.M.J. Sales, L.U. Dantas & A.N. Targino
New sustainable fashion business models: “the coworking” case study 645
L.F. Barcellos & A.C. Broega
Sustainability: The reconfiguration of fashion, the textile industry and the role
of the designer in a new social scenario 653
M. de L. Iracet
Tucum fiber: Reflections about Amazonian biodiversity, traditional knowledge
and sustainable fashion 659
L. Pennas & J. Baruque-Ramos
Silk: Protocols for the verification of socioeconomic impacts in the production of cocoons 667
S.M.B.D. Barcelos, M.G. Guedes, E. Pinheiro & A.C. de Francisco
A perspective towards a circular fashion design system 675
B. Melo & A.C. Broega
Fashion and sustainability’s valences: Exposing gaps 683
R. Puppim, C. Jordão, L.M. Arruda, D.P. Beduschi & A.C. Broega
Design and social innovation: Methodological principles for community qualification 691
J. Oenning, J.B. Garcia Jr. & J. Cunha
Author index 699
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