Designing Clothes with the Flat Pattern Method: Customize Fitting Shells to Create Garments in Any Style PDF by Sara Alm

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Designing Clothes with the Flat Pattern Method: Customize Fitting Shells to Create Garments in Any Style
by Sara Alm
Designing Clothes with the Flat Pattern Method: Customize Fitting Shells to Create Garments in Any Style

Contents

Introduction
CHAPTER 1 MASTER PATTERN BASICS
What Is a Master Pattern?
Setting Up and Using Master Patterns
Materials
Paper
Guidelines
Measurements
Making Your Master Pattern
Seam Allowance
Adding Ease
How to Use Your Master Pattern
Working Pattern
Final Pattern
CHAPTER 2 SKIRTS
Changes to the Waistline
Raising or Lowering Waistline
Lowered Waistline
Raised Waistline
Waistline Finishes
Straight Waistband
Facing
Contoured Waistband
Yoke
Flare
A-Line Flare
Flounce Variation
Flare Extension
Pencil
Stylelines
Gathers
Pleats
CHAPTER 3 BODICE FOUNDATION
The Master Bodice Pattern Library
Guidelines
Aligning the Master Bodice and Skirt Combination
Creating a Master Princess Seamline
Relaxed Bodice Master
Lengthening or Shortening Your Bodice Master Pattern
Center Back Seam Shaping
Front or Back Opening
Sleeveless Bodices
Sleeveless Ease Adjustment
Sleeveless Armhole Dart
CHAPTER 4 BODICE DESIGN
Changes to the Neckline
Wide Neckline
Deep Front Neckline
Deep Back Neckline
Dart Manipulation
Darts as Tucks
Darts as Gathers
Princess Seamlines
Working from a Bodice and Skirt Master
Working from a Princess Seamline Master
Empire Seamlines
All-in-One Neckline and Armhole Facing
CHAPTER 5 COLLARS AND CLOSURES
Closure Essentials
Buttons and Buttonholes
Placket
Facing
Collar Anatomy
Flat Collar
Standing Collar
Adding a Lapel
Collar With Band
CHAPTER 6 SLEEVES
Sleeve Guidelines
Shortening or Lengthening a Sleeve
Sleeve Ease
Removing Ease
Low Cap Sleeve
Gathered Sleeve
Flare
Bands and Cuffs
Band
Cuff
Sleeve with Cuff
Sleeve Placket
Two-Piece Sleeve
Quarter Line Two-Piece Sleeve
Centerline Two-Piece Sleeve
CHAPTER 7 PANTS
The Master Pant Pattern Library
Pant Variations
Guidelines
Making a Master Pant Pattern
Adjustments to a Pant Silhouette
Waistline
Pockets
Front Pockets
Patch Pockets
Side Seam Pockets
Flared Pant
Panel Pant
Pleated Pant
Pleats to the Base
Short Pleats
Fly Front
Zipper Fly
Mock Fly
CHAPTER 8 FINISHING DETAILS
Hem Finishes
Narrow Hem
Large Hem
Hem Facing
Slits and Vents
Slit
Vent
Linings
Hanging Lining
Bagged Lining
Resources
About the Author
A glossary appears on the inside back cover

INTRODUCTION
I have always loved creating and designing clothing; it is a fun way to express myself. Sewing from commercial patterns gave me a great start, but it left me wanting more. I found myself yearning to adjust patterns, alter clothing from my wardrobe, and experiment with new ideas. I fell in love with patternmaking.

Designing clothes with the flat pattern method gave me the ability to create endless possibilities of silhouettes from basic styles. It is easy to make a simple garment pattern into a block or master pattern. I am excited to share techniques that will enable you to realize your own designs, ones that speak to you, about you, and for you. Find your inspiration anywhere, and let this book guide you to create new designs.

Only very basic tools are needed to begin designing clothes with the flat pattern method. Creating your own designs will be rewarding if you possess garment sewing knowledge, imagination, and a sense of adventure. A great-fitting master pattern is a critical first step. First read Chapter 1, Master Pattern Basics, so you have a great foundation, and then dive into the sections that intrigue you the most.

The step-by-step instructions will show you techniques to create certain styles, but I encourage you to mix and match techniques, try them on different areas of a garment than I have shown, and even try to break some rules. Although not every pattern you create will be a success, you will learn so much from it and hopefully have fun in the exploration.

It is US$10. To get this book send email: textileebooks@gmail.com

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