The Sewing Machine Master Guide: From Basic to Expert
by Clifford L. Blodget
by Clifford L. Blodget
Table of Contents
Introduction
How to use this Book
About this Book
About the Author
Sewing Machine Basics
Types of sewing machines
Home sewing machines
Heavy-duty home machines
Industrial sewing machines
Serger & overlock machines
Specialized machines
Mechanical or electronic
How A Sewing Machine Works
The sewing machine needle
The lockstitch
Making the lockstitch
The sewing awl
The machine
Powering the machine
Buying Recommendations
Some ideas
Recommended home machines
Recommended Industrial machines
Recommended home sergers
Combinations
How to test machines and do research
Feature checklist – mechanical machines
Feature checklist – electronic machines
How To Use A Sewing Machine
Before you start sewing
Winding the bobbin
Threading diagrams
Upper threading
Lower threading
Raising the bobbin thread
Setting the thread tension
Setting the stitch type and stitch length
Sewing with older mechanical machines
Sewing with newer electronic machines
Checking the tension
Tips and Ideas
Adjusting Tension
About tension
Tension adjustment knobs and screws
Recommended fabric and thread for testing
Tension adjustment procedure
Quick bobbin tension adjustment for HA-1
Balanced thread tension and the lock point
Overall tension setting
Tension tips
Machines with no bobbin tension adjustment
Problems???
Stitches
Basic stitch recommendations
Understanding stitch diagrams
The Lockstitch
About Stitch length
Zigzag stitches
Decorative Stitches
Chain Stitches
Overlock Stitches
Seam strength and design considerations
Standard stitch specification system
Thread
Thread basics
Thread Size Systems
Thread types
Inspecting thread
Strength testing
Does thread quality really matter?
Needles
Needles for home sewing
Buying needles
Needle size
Needle types
Parts of the modern needle
Needle Systems
Inspecting needles
How long do needles last?
Installing needles
Bobbins
Bobbin basics
Home bobbin types
Industrial bobbin types
Testing a bobbin in the machine
How to inspect bobbins
Plastic vs metal
Proper bobbin winding
Prewound bobbins
Stand alone bobbin winders
Bobbin interchangeability and off brands
Presser Feet
Presser foot basics
The shank
Shank types for home machines
Snap-on home feet
Shank types for Industrial machines
Foot considerations for zigzag machines
Foot specifications
Foot types
Button Hole attachments
Walking foot attachments
Zigzag attachments
Fabric
Fabric weight
Fabric types
Fiber types
Tips
Home Machines 1930-2004
Criteria
Class 15 vs Class 66
Oscillating vs rotary hook
Machines built before 1930
Straight Stitch heavy duty machines 1930-1970
Singer aluminum straight stitch machines 1933-1970
Singer Slant Needle zigzag machines 1957-1982
Japanese cast iron zigzag machines 1955-1975
Necchi cast iron zigzag machines 1950 to 1965
Pfaff model 130 cast iron zigzag machines 1950’s
Singer 328k aluminum zigzag machine 1963-1966
Japanese and Taiwanese zigzag machines 1970-1990
Plastic body zigzag machines 1970-2004
Home Machines 2005-Present
Inexpensive mechanical machines
Heavy duty mechanical machines
Electronic machines
High speed straight stitch machines
Industrial Machines
Buying an industrial machine
Motors
Feed types
Lubrication and oil systems
Straight stitch drop feed machines
Electronic drop feed machines
Zigzag drop feed machines
Zigzag electronic drop feed machines
Portable Walking Foot Machines
Heavy duty walking Foot Machines
Specialized Machine types
Quilting Machines
Types of machines and features
Inexpensive machines for quilting
Medium price machines for quilting
Industrial machines sometimes used for quilting
Long arm machines for quilting frames
Embroidery Machines
Work flow and software
Features and specifications
Inexpensive embroidery machines
Medium cost embroidery machines
Multi-needle embroidery machines
Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting techniques
Troubleshooting by symptom
In-depth diagnostics
Test sewing
Adjustments
Preparation for adjustments
Needle bar and hook timing
Hook to needle clearance
Shuttle-hook driver clearance
Bobbin-case clearance
Needle position adjustment
Feed dog height
Presser foot alignment and height
Tension disk dis-assembly and adjustment
Adjusting mechanisms and linkages
Adjusting belts
Bending needles to adjust clearance
Maintenance and Repair
Service manuals
Maintenance intervals
Lubed for life?
Cleaning and lubrication
Oil for sewing machines
Grease for sewing machines
Tools
Screws, bolts & nuts
Bearings
Clearances and units of measurement
Dis-assembly
Drive Belts
Bobbin winders
Mechanisms and linkages
Broken or loose parts and linkages
Freeing frozen parts
Making or fixing parts not available
Restoring old machines
Durability
Home Motors
Industrial Motors
Electrical wiring
Lights
Foot controllers
Electronics
Setting Up A Sewing Room
Sewing machine tables
Lighting
Cutting tables & work tables
Rotary cutters & cutting matts
Scissors
Electric cutters
Storage and Workspace
Getting Parts
eBay
Home machines
Industrial machines
Parts machines
Buying & Selling Sewing Machines
Buying new home machines
Buying new industrial machines
Buying used machines
Selling used machines
Sewing Machine History
Early sewing machines
American sewing machine history
Singer
How to use this Book
About this Book
About the Author
Sewing Machine Basics
Types of sewing machines
Home sewing machines
Heavy-duty home machines
Industrial sewing machines
Serger & overlock machines
Specialized machines
Mechanical or electronic
How A Sewing Machine Works
The sewing machine needle
The lockstitch
Making the lockstitch
The sewing awl
The machine
Powering the machine
Buying Recommendations
Some ideas
Recommended home machines
Recommended Industrial machines
Recommended home sergers
Combinations
How to test machines and do research
Feature checklist – mechanical machines
Feature checklist – electronic machines
How To Use A Sewing Machine
Before you start sewing
Winding the bobbin
Threading diagrams
Upper threading
Lower threading
Raising the bobbin thread
Setting the thread tension
Setting the stitch type and stitch length
Sewing with older mechanical machines
Sewing with newer electronic machines
Checking the tension
Tips and Ideas
Adjusting Tension
About tension
Tension adjustment knobs and screws
Recommended fabric and thread for testing
Tension adjustment procedure
Quick bobbin tension adjustment for HA-1
Balanced thread tension and the lock point
Overall tension setting
Tension tips
Machines with no bobbin tension adjustment
Problems???
Stitches
Basic stitch recommendations
Understanding stitch diagrams
The Lockstitch
About Stitch length
Zigzag stitches
Decorative Stitches
Chain Stitches
Overlock Stitches
Seam strength and design considerations
Standard stitch specification system
Thread
Thread basics
Thread Size Systems
Thread types
Inspecting thread
Strength testing
Does thread quality really matter?
Needles
Needles for home sewing
Buying needles
Needle size
Needle types
Parts of the modern needle
Needle Systems
Inspecting needles
How long do needles last?
Installing needles
Bobbins
Bobbin basics
Home bobbin types
Industrial bobbin types
Testing a bobbin in the machine
How to inspect bobbins
Plastic vs metal
Proper bobbin winding
Prewound bobbins
Stand alone bobbin winders
Bobbin interchangeability and off brands
Presser Feet
Presser foot basics
The shank
Shank types for home machines
Snap-on home feet
Shank types for Industrial machines
Foot considerations for zigzag machines
Foot specifications
Foot types
Button Hole attachments
Walking foot attachments
Zigzag attachments
Fabric
Fabric weight
Fabric types
Fiber types
Tips
Home Machines 1930-2004
Criteria
Class 15 vs Class 66
Oscillating vs rotary hook
Machines built before 1930
Straight Stitch heavy duty machines 1930-1970
Singer aluminum straight stitch machines 1933-1970
Singer Slant Needle zigzag machines 1957-1982
Japanese cast iron zigzag machines 1955-1975
Necchi cast iron zigzag machines 1950 to 1965
Pfaff model 130 cast iron zigzag machines 1950’s
Singer 328k aluminum zigzag machine 1963-1966
Japanese and Taiwanese zigzag machines 1970-1990
Plastic body zigzag machines 1970-2004
Home Machines 2005-Present
Inexpensive mechanical machines
Heavy duty mechanical machines
Electronic machines
High speed straight stitch machines
Industrial Machines
Buying an industrial machine
Motors
Feed types
Lubrication and oil systems
Straight stitch drop feed machines
Electronic drop feed machines
Zigzag drop feed machines
Zigzag electronic drop feed machines
Portable Walking Foot Machines
Heavy duty walking Foot Machines
Specialized Machine types
Quilting Machines
Types of machines and features
Inexpensive machines for quilting
Medium price machines for quilting
Industrial machines sometimes used for quilting
Long arm machines for quilting frames
Embroidery Machines
Work flow and software
Features and specifications
Inexpensive embroidery machines
Medium cost embroidery machines
Multi-needle embroidery machines
Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting techniques
Troubleshooting by symptom
In-depth diagnostics
Test sewing
Adjustments
Preparation for adjustments
Needle bar and hook timing
Hook to needle clearance
Shuttle-hook driver clearance
Bobbin-case clearance
Needle position adjustment
Feed dog height
Presser foot alignment and height
Tension disk dis-assembly and adjustment
Adjusting mechanisms and linkages
Adjusting belts
Bending needles to adjust clearance
Maintenance and Repair
Service manuals
Maintenance intervals
Lubed for life?
Cleaning and lubrication
Oil for sewing machines
Grease for sewing machines
Tools
Screws, bolts & nuts
Bearings
Clearances and units of measurement
Dis-assembly
Drive Belts
Bobbin winders
Mechanisms and linkages
Broken or loose parts and linkages
Freeing frozen parts
Making or fixing parts not available
Restoring old machines
Durability
Home Motors
Industrial Motors
Electrical wiring
Lights
Foot controllers
Electronics
Setting Up A Sewing Room
Sewing machine tables
Lighting
Cutting tables & work tables
Rotary cutters & cutting matts
Scissors
Electric cutters
Storage and Workspace
Getting Parts
eBay
Home machines
Industrial machines
Parts machines
Buying & Selling Sewing Machines
Buying new home machines
Buying new industrial machines
Buying used machines
Selling used machines
Sewing Machine History
Early sewing machines
American sewing machine history
Singer
Japanese sewing machine history
European sewing machine history
More sewing machine history
Links & Information Sources
New machines
Used machines
Industrial machines & parts
Home machine parts
Servo motors
Home sewing machine manufactures
Industrial sewing machine manufacturers
Sewing machine history
Sewing machine Theory and Information
Sewing machine manuals
Needles
Embroidery
Quilting
Thread
Glossary