by Nancy Zieman
Contents:
ABOUT THE AUTHOR. . . . . . . . . . . . .3
INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
A
Anchor Cloth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Appliqué: Edge Satin Stitch . . . . . . .8
Appliqué: Inner Details . . . . . . . . . . .12
Appliqué: Interfacing Technique . . .13
B
Basting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Belt Loops: Fabric. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Belt Loops: Thread . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Bias . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Binding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Blanket Stitching: Hand . . . . . . . . . .22
Blanket Stitching: Machine . . . . . . .23
Blind Hemming: Hand. . . . . . . . . . . .24
Blind Hemming: Machine. . . . . . . . .25
Buttonholes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Buttons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
C
Casings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Chain Stitch: Quilting . . . . . . . . . . . .33
Circles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Clipping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Cutting: Patterns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Cutting: Quilt Strips. . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
D
Darts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Decorative Stitches . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
Double Needles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
E
Easing: Seams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Easing: Sleeves. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
Edgestitching. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
Elastic Types. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
Elastic: Basic Technique . . . . . . . . . .45
Elastic: Clear Technique . . . . . . . . . .46
F
Fabric Tubes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46
Facings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48
Fusible Web . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49
Fusible Web: Paper-Backed . . . . . . .49
G
Gathers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50
Grading . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51
Grainline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51
H
Half-Square Triangles . . . . . . . . . . . .52
Hems. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53
Hooks and Eyes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54
I
Interfacing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55
J
Jackets: Extended Facings . . . . . . . .56
Jackets: Sleeve Lining . . . . . . . . . . . .58
K
Knit: Identifi cation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59
Knit: Seams. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60
Knit: Types . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61
L
Layering a Quilt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62
Layout . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64
M
Marking. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66
Mitered Corners: Pockets . . . . . . . . .68
Mitered Corners: Quilt Borders . . . .70
N
Nap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71
Needles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72
Nips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73
Notches. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73
O
Organizing: Fabric . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74
Organizing: Needles . . . . . . . . . . . . .74
Organizing: Patterns . . . . . . . . . . . . .75
Organizing: Projects . . . . . . . . . . . . .75
P
Patch Pockets. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76
Pintucks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78
Piping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80
Pivoting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82
Pleats. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .83
Pocket Flaps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .84
Q
Quarter Marks: Pins . . . . . . . . . . . . . .85
Quarter Marks: Pressing . . . . . . . . . .85
Quarter-Square Triangles . . . . . . . . .86
Quilting Options. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88
R
Ribbing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94
Ripping: Serged Seams . . . . . . . . . . .96
Ripping: Stitched Seams. . . . . . . . . .96
Rod Pocket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97
Ruffl es: Using a Ruffl er Foot . . . . . . .98
S
Seam Finishes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100
Seams: French . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .101
Seams: Traditional . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .102
Serging: Chain Stitch. . . . . . . . . . . . .104
Serging: Cover Stitch. . . . . . . . . . . . .104
Serging: Flatlock Stitch
(3-Thread) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .106
Serging: Overlock Stitch
(4-Thread) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108
Serging: Overlock Stitch
(3-Thread) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .109
Serging: Rolled Edges . . . . . . . . . . . .110
Serging: Rolled Lettuce Edge. . . . . .111
Sleeves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .112
Snaps: Basic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .115
Snaps: Swing/Hanging . . . . . . . . . . .116
Squaring a Quilt Top . . . . . . . . . . . . .117
Stabilizers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118
Staystitching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120
Strata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120
T
Tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .121
Thread. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122
Topstitching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123
U
Underlining. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123
Understitching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124
V
Vinyl. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .125
W
Waistband. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126
Wrapped Corners. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128
Y
Yo-Yos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130
Z
Zigzag Stitch. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .132
Zippers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .132
RESOURCES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .140
INDEX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .141
INTRODUCTION from NANCY
My fi rst job after college was teaching sewing at a Minnesota Fabrics store in Chicago. Setting up twenty folding chairs in the middle of the store fi fteen minutes prior to the demonstration constituted my fi rst classroom. Since then, I’ve taught in almost every venue possible, with the TV studio being my most recognized classroom. During the past thirty-fi ve years, I’ve tweaked and personalized many of the common techniques.
Many of these methods have been published in other books of mine, but they’ve never been gathered together in an A-to-Z reference. My hope is that you’ll enjoy this quick reference and that these techniques will fi ne-tune your sewing and quilting skills.