by Joi Mahon
Contents
Special Offers
Introduction
CHAPTER 1
Measuring and Pattern Protocol
Tools and Supplies
Tips and Tricks for Perfect Measuring
Solving Fit Issues From the Start
Measure Yourself, Measure Your Pattern
CHAPTER 2
Vertical Torso Adjustments
Shoulder to Apex
Bust Curve
Underbust to Waist
Shoulder to Full Back
Back Neck to Waist
Truing Armholes
Vertical Combination Adjustments
Truing Side Seams
CHAPTER 3
Horizontal Torso Adjustments
Full Bust, Full Underbust and Full Waist
Apex to Apex
Apex to Side Seam
Front Waist
Upper Chest
Center Front Waist to Lower Vertical Bustline
Full Upper Back (Shoulders)
Mid Back (Back Full Bust)
Back Waist
Other Back Pattern Adjustments
Other Horizontal Torso Pattern Examples
CHAPTER 4
Vertical Lower Body Adjustments
Center Front Waist to Hips
Center Front Waist to Abdomen (optional)
Center Front Waist to Knee
Side Seam Waist to Hips
Center Back Waist to Hips
Vertical Lower Body Combination Patterns
Tips for Blending the Lower Body Side Seams
CHAPTER 5
Horizontal Lower Body Adjustments
Center Front Waist to Side Seam
Center Back Waist to Side Seam
Center Front Waist to Lower Vertical Bustline
Center Back Waist to Back Vertical Line
Center Front to Side Seam at Abdomen (optional)
Center Front to Side Seam at Hips
Center Back to Side Seam at Hips
Horizontal Lower Body Combinations
Applying the Method to Pants
CHAPTER 6
Vertical Arm Adjustments
Shoulder Length: Neck to Shoulder Point
Cap Height: Shoulder Point to Full Bicep
Bicep to Elbow
Elbow to Wrist
CHAPTER 7
Horizontal Arm Adjustments
Bicep
Back Upper Half Cap
Elbow
Wrist
Combination Sleeves and Sleeve Extras
CHAPTER 8
Ease and the Polished Fit
All About Ease
Sewing a Fit Sample
The Fitting
CHAPTER 9
Garment Application Workbook
Using Your Fit Pattern with a Fashion Pattern
Garment Style: The Boxy Jacket
Garment Style: The Classic Blouse
Garment Style: Princess Seam Bodice
Garment Style: Shorts and Pants
Garment Style: A-Line Gored Skirt
Garment Style: Princess Line Dress
Garment Style: The Princess Coat
Garment Style: Everyday Dress
Garment Style: The Coat Dress
Garment Style: The Ball Gown
CHAPTER 10
Real Bodies, Real Fit
Same Pattern on Different Bodies
FIT CHALLENGE #1
Grammy V (aka “Little Grandma”)
FIT CHALLENGE #2
Tammie
FIT CHALLENGE #3
Julie
FIT CHALLENGE #4
Morgan (“tween”)
FIT CHALLENGE #5
Cheryl
FIT CHALLENGE #6
Carol
FIT CHALLENGE #7
Patricia
FIT CHALLENGE #8
Susan
FIT CHALLENGE #9
Lisa
FIT CHALLENGE #10
Applying Measurements to Men’s Patterns
Conclusion
Resources
Special Thanks
Dedication
Acknowledgments
THE HISTORY OF MY METHOD AND HOW IT WORKS
Fit does not have to be complicated or hard. As I teach fit and design around the country, students tell me the same thing over and over: “We buy every fit book, take every class and are never satisfied with the results.” Sewists have fit anxiety; thus, sewists are turned off from sewing garments. This is sad to me because sewing is so rewarding. A sewist should not have to feel that they need a college-size textbook to achieve simple results. I see the same methods taught over and over again. These methods worked on body types fifty years ago, but bodies and fitting needs are different today. I wanted to title this The Best Fit Book Ever! or The
Only Fit Book You Will Ever Need! because a lot of old-school thought and fluff is being taught that is time-consuming and unnecessary. As I pass along my methods, I see students have amazing and instant results. Why or how, you ask? I approach fit at the beginning and consider the proportion of specific areas of a pattern. I want parts of the pattern to correspond to the same areas on the body. Why make generic pattern adjustments that treat the front like the back or change the entire pattern and create more fitting issues?