Contents
Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles xi
Disclaimer xvii
Preface xix
Chapter 1 The role of patterns in clothing manufacture: generating and communicating information 1
1.1 Introduction: the Pattern Cutter’s place in apparel production 1
1.2 The pattern cutting team 2
1.3 Specifi cations, measurement charts and other documents 3
1.4 Computerised documentation 5
1.5 Tools of the trade 6
Chapter 2 Introduction to the keyboard, mouse and screen layout in Lectra Modaris pattern cutting software 7
2.1 Introduction to Modaris 7
2.2 The keyboard 9
2.3 The mouse 10
2.4 The Modaris home screen layout 11
2.5 Navigating the home screen: the x-axis and y-axis 11
2.6 Bringing up different screens and moving them around 12
2.7 Practice exercise 13
Chapter 3 Title blocks in Lectra Modaris pattern cutting software 14
3.1 Introduction: information for patterns 14
3.2 Title blocks 15
3.3 Model identifi cation sheet 16
3.4 Individual sheet 17
3.5 Variant 19
3.6 Industry example 22
Chapter 4 Digitising a clothing pattern on Lectra Modaris pattern cutting software 24
4.1 Introduction: digitising hardware 24
4.2 Digitising with or without seam allowances 26
4.3 Pattern preparation 28
4.4 The digitising process 33
4.5 Handset button notes 37
4.6 Digitising problems 37
Chapter 5 Plotting using JustPrint 38
5.1 Introduction to JustPrint V2R2 38
5.2 How to plot out a model using JustPrint 39
5.3 How to plot single pieces 43
5.4 JustPrint settings 44
5.5 Geometry 46
5.6 Text 50
5.7 Layout 52
5.8 Cutfile configuration and HPGL 52
Chapter 6 A guide to the toolbox in Lectra Modaris pattern cutting software: F1–F3 53
6.1 Introduction 53
6.2 F1: creating lines and points 56
6.3 F2: notches, orientation and geometric shapes 62
6.4 F3: modifying lines and points 65
Chapter 7 A guide to the toolbox in Lectra Modaris pattern cutting software: F4–F8 69
7.1 Introduction 69
7.2 F4: fi nishing, seam allowances, corners and grain lines 69
7.3 F5: derived pieces 75
7.4 F6: grading 76
7.5 F7: evolution system 77
7.6 F8: measuring and assembly 78
Chapter 8 The upper tool bar in Lectra Modaris pattern cutting software 84
8.1 Upper tool bar 84
8.2 File menu 85
8.3 Edit menu 88
8.4 Sheet menu 89
8.5 Corner tools menu 91
8.6 Display menu 92
8.7 Sizes menu 95
8.8 Selection menu 96
8.9 Macro menu 96
8.10 Layers menu 97
8.11 Parameters menu 98
8.12 Confi gure menu 99
8.13 Tool menu 99
8.14 Help menu 99
Chapter 9 The lower tool bar menus and keyboard commands in Lectra Modaris pattern cutting software 100
9.1 Lower tool bar 100
9.2 Notch tools 100
9.3 Marks (F1 – Relative point) 101
9.4 Corner tools (F4 – Corners) 101
9.5 Axis (F4 – Axis) 101
9.6 Grading 101
9.7 Curve points 102
9.8 Print 102
9.9 Cut piece 102
9.10 FPattern 102
9.11 User arrangement 102
9.12 Control keys RHS 102
9.13 Control keys LHS 103
9.14 Shift 104
9.15 Control (Ctrl) 104
9.16 Number pad 104
Chapter 10 Converting fi les using the Lectra interoperability function 105
10.1 Introduction to the fi le conversion procedure 105
10.2 Export procedure 106
10.3 Confi rming conversion has taken place 109
10.4 Email attachments 109
10.5 Import procedure 110
10.6 Error messages 113
10.7 Additional personal interoperability notes 114
Chapter 11 Creating size ranges in Lectra Modaris pattern cutting software 117
11.1 Introduction 117
11.2 Terminology 118
11.3 How to create a size range 119
11.4 Attaching a size range to a model 121
11.5 How to change a size range 122
11.6 Size correspondence 122
Chapter 12 The importance of measurements and size charts for pattern cutting 123
12.1 Introduction: the importance of measurements for clothing 123
12.2 The development of clothing patterns 124
12.3 The emergence of modern clothing patterns 125
12.4 The development of sizing surveys and sizing charts 126
12.5 The infl uence of body shape and size on measurements 127
12.6 Using and comparing sizing and grading charts 129
12.7 Current approaches to sizing 131
12.8 Using a size chart to make clothing patterns 133
12.9 References 133
Chapter 13 How do I? The functions and menus that you need to know in Lectra Modaris indexed by the required action 134
13.1 Introduction 134
13.2 Create or add 134
13.3 Copy 136
13.4 Delete 136
13.5 Digitise 136
13.6 Display 136
13.7 Join 136
13.8 Move 137
13.9 Moving around the screen 137
13.10 Select or choose 137
13.11 Separate 137
13.12 Undo 137
13.13 Zoom 138
Appendix 1 Pattern numbering 139
Appendix 2 Recommended abbreviations for naming pattern pieces in Lectra Modaris 144
Appendix 3 Keyboard commands by alphabet 146
Appendix 4 Lectra Modaris terminology glossary 149
Index 151