CONTENTS
List of Illustrations
List of Maps
List of Figures
List of Tables
Preface
Introduction: Cotton Textiles and Global History
Prasannan Parthasarathi and Giorgio Riello
PARTI
World Areas of Cotton Textile Manufacturing
1. Cotton Textiles in the Indian Subcontinent, 1200-1800
Prasannan Parthasarathi
2. The Resistant Fibre: Cotton Textiles in Imperial China
Harriet T. Zurndorfer
3. The/First European Cotton Industry: Italy and Germany, 1100-1800
Maureen Fennell Mazzaoui
4. Ottoman Cotton Textiles: The Story of a Success that did not Last, 1500-1800 89
Suraiya Faroqhi
5. ‘Guinea Cloth’: Production and Consumption of Cotton Textiles in West Africa before and during the Atlantic Slave Trade-· 105
Colleen E. Kriger
6. The Production of Cotton Textiles in Early Modern South-East Asia 127
William Gervase Clarence-Smith
PART II
Global Trade and Consumption of Cotton Textiles
7. The Dutch and the Indian Ocean Textile Trade Om Prakash 145
8. Awash in a Sea of Cloth: Gujarat, Africa, and the Western Indian Ocean, 1300-1800 161
Pedro Machado
9. Japan Indianized: The Material Culture oflmported Textiles in Japan, 1550-1850 181
Fujita Kayoko
IO. Revising the Historical Narrative: India, Europe, and the Cotton Trade, c.1300-1800 205
Beverly Lemire
11. Cottons Consumption in the Seventeenth- and Eighteenth- Century North Atlantic 227
Robert S. DuPlessis
12. Fashion, Race, and Cotton Textiles in Colonial Spanish America 247
Marta V. Vicente
13. The Globalization of Cotton Textiles: Indian Cottons, Europe, and the Atlantic World, 1600-1850 261
Giorgio Riello
PART III
Cotton Revolutions and their Consequences in Europe and Asia
14. The Birth of a New European Industry: L’Indiennage in Seventeenth-Century Marseilles 291
Olivier Raveux
15. What were Cottons for in the Early Industrial Revolution? 307
John Styles
16. The Limits of Wool and the Potential of Cotton in the Eighteenth and Early Nineteenth Centuries 327
Pat Hudson
17. The Geopolitics of a Global Industry: Eurasian Divergence and
the Mechanization of Cotton Text* Production in England 351
Patrick O’Brien
18. Cotton and the Peasant Economy: A Foreign Fibre in Early
Modern Japan 367
Masayuki Tanimoto
19. Involution and Chinese Cotton Textile Production: Songjiang in
the Late Eighteenth and Early Nineteenth Centuries 387
Bozhong Li
20. Decline in Three Keys: Indian Cotton Manufacturing from the
Late Eighteenth Century 397
Prasannan Parthasarathi and Ian Wendt
Glossary 409
Bibliography 421
Notes on Contributors 469
Index 475
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
Plates numbered in italics also appear in the colour plate section, between pp. 240 and 241
I.I. ‘Cleaning the cotton from the seeds’, watercolour, 1798- 1804 24
1.2. Indian cotton carder, engraving, 1774-81 25
1.3. An Indian weaver, from Frederick Shoberl, The World in Miniature (1821-27) 26
1+ Method of printing chintz in India, watercolour, c. 1820 28
1-5. A nobleman seated smoking on a terrace, 1750-4 34
1.6. Cloth merchant seated in his shop selling chintz to a customer, c.1800 35
1.7. Skirmish between Mughal and Rajput forces from the Akbarnama (159()—-{)5) 37
2.1. Multi-spindle spinning machine for spinning silk or ramie from the Nongshu tupu (1313) 52
3.1. ‘yenice Receiving Homage from Conquered Cit~~:iJate 1 sixteenth century ·· 66
3.2. ‘Perugia’ towel, fifteenth-sixteenth century 68
3.3. ‘Perugia’ towel, fifteenth-sixteenth century 72
3+ Furnishing fabric, 1600-1640 84
4.1. Village women spinning near the River Lorn, 1860s or early 1870s 98
5.1. Cotton tunic, plain weave check, eleventh-twelfth century 109
5.2. Detail, cotton wrapper, alternating strips of plain weave check and stripes II8
5.3. Detail, cotton wrapper, alternating areas of plain weave white and stripes II8
5.4. Detail, woman’s cotton head cloth, plain weave check Il9
5.5. Detail, woman’s cotton wrapper, plain weave strips Il9
6.1. Block-printed, mordant-dyed, and painted longcloth produced in
Gujarat, c.1680-1720 132
6.2. ‘Dodot’, ceremonial skirt-clot~, resist-dyed cotton, late
eighteenth century 136
7.1. Painted cotton cloth produced on the Coromandel Coast, late
seventeenth century 147
7.2. Painted and dyed palampore produced on the Coromandel
Coast, c.1730 155
7.3. Mordant-dyed and painted cotton produced on the Coromandel
Coast, eighteenth century 158
8. 1. Q!iay at Mozambique Island, 1809 164
9.1. ‘La Femme exotica’, early nineteenth century 182
9.2. ‘The new urban fashion culture of the mid-Edo period’,
mid-eighteenth century 192
9.3. ‘Dranken Boer’ (Drunken farmer), doll, 1823-30
9.4. Sample pieces of hand-woven cotton fabrics, 1823-30
9-5. Sample piece, second half of the nineteenth century
9.6. ‘Selling textile imports’, late sixteenth century
9-7- ‘Nagasaki sarasa’, first half of the nineteenth century 199
9.8. Sample books of textiles, first half of the nineteenth century 200
9.9. Japanese woodblock print, 1787-8 201
9. 1 o. Sarasa print undergarment, second half of the nineteenth/ first
half of the twentieth century 202
JO.I. Gujarati block-printed cloth traded to Indonesia and detail, c.1400 209
rn.2. Gujarati block-printed cotton, excavated at Fustat, Egypt, c.1400 210
IO.J. GJjarati block printed cotton, excavated at Fustat, Egypt 211
10+ English crewel-work bed curtain, 1690–1700 216
10.5. Bed curtain, Indian cotton painted and dyed, c.1700 220
rn.6. Hanging, cotton painted and dyed, c.1700 220
10.7. British-made muslin apron, 1785–90 225
10.8. British block-printed glazed cotton gown, 1795-1800 225
II.I. Sir John Caldwell, anonymous artist, c.1774-80 239
r2.r. Jose de Alcibar (attrib.), De espafioyl negra, mulato, c.1760 257
r2.2. Miguel Cabrera, De indio y barsina; Zambayga, 1763 257
13.1. Doll’s house belonging to Petronella Dunois, 1676 268
13.2. Painted and dyed cotton banyan, c.1750–75 270
IJ.J. A Dutch woman, from The Costume of the Netherlands (1817) 272
r3.4. Hat-brim lining, printed and painted cotton, India, eighteenth century 272
13-5. Block-printed, painted, and resist- and mordant-dyed Kalamkari, ~1850 277
13.6. Bed curtain, plate-printed cotton, 1770–1780 279
13.7. Piece of a checked handkerchief, block-printed cotton, 1760 282
1 4. 1. Chafarcani produced in Provence or imported into Marseilles before 1759 293
14.2. Diyarbakir and Kurdistan in 1682 299
15.1. ‘Flowered cotten’, 1759 313
15.2. ‘Flowered lining’, 1759 313
15.3. Central panel of a cotton counterpane, 1809 315
16. 1. A woman spinning and carding wool, from The Costume of Yorkshire (1814) 349
17.1. The Louisbourg/Britannia Flag, 1745 356
18. 1. A cotton-weaving peasant household in the Kawachi region, south-east of Osaka 370
19.1. ‘An old woman twisting cotton’, 1800 391
19.2. ‘A woman weaving cotton’, 1800 392
19.3. ‘Cotton ferry’, 1800 392
20. 1. Gandhi spinning cotton in Bir la House, Mumbai, 1942 403
PREFACE
This book is a product of the Global Economic History Network (GEHN), a global network of scholars that was housed at the London School of Economics from 2003 to 2007 with the financial support of the Leverhulme Trust. Many of the papers contained in this volume were presented at a GEHN conference on cotton textiles held in Padua, Italy, in October 2005. We would like to thank the University of Padua and the Head of the History Department, Giovanni Luigi Fontana, for their kind hospitality and assistance with that meeting. Our thanks also go to the Fondation des Treilles where a conference on cotton textiles was held in March 2006 and to Tirthankar Roy, the organiser of a second GEHN conference on cotton textiles held in Pune, India, in December 2006. Several of the papers in this book were presented at these venues. We are indebted as well to the International Economic History Association for giving us the opportunity to present the overall results of these conferences at the Helsinki Congress in August 2006. The ‘cotton session’ was organised in collaboration with Kent Deng who we warmly thank.
Our colleagues at the University of Warwick and Boston College provided support and encouragement during the editing of this book. Andrew Littlejohns, Raffaella Mase,Juliet Schor, Krishna and Sulakshana and Richard Butler were critical in the preparation of the manuscript and Jackie Pritchard was a superb copyeditor. John Saunders steered the manuscript through the production process with great aplomb. Pat Hudson, Director of the Pasold Fund and editor of the series, provided much assistance at all stages.
Finally, we are grateful to the Scouloudi Foundation, the University of Warwick, and Patrick Maney, Dean of Arts and Sciences at Boston College, for the financial support that made possible the reproduction of the images, Kevin Bedell, Vice Provost for Research at Boston College, and David Quigley, Interim Dean of Arts and Sciences at Boston College, for funds that financed the compilation of the index, and the Pasold Fund and Leverhulme Foundation for supporting the publication of this volume.
Our journey into the global history of cotton textiles would not have been successful without the support, guidance and intellectual direction provided by Patrick O’Brien, Centennial Professor of Global History at the London School of Economics and Director of the Global Economic History Network. This volume is dedicated to him.