1 Introduction 1
Getting Started 2 / Getting to Know the Parts of the Sewing Machine 3
2 Stitch & Seam Types 5
Stitch Types 8 / Seam Types 17
3 Attachments for the Sewing Machine 25
Edge Guide 25 / Presser Foot 27 / Hemming Foot 28 / Zipper Foot 29 / Folders 30
4 Needles & Thread 31
Parts of the Needle 31 / Thread 34 / Thread Consumption 36 / Thread Sizing 37
5 Interlining 41
Fusing Equipment 42 / Applying Interlining 43
6 Sewing Darts 47
7 Front Edge Fastenings 51
8 Inserting Zip Fastenings 59
Invisible Zip Insertion 60 / Concealed or Standard Zip with Guard Insertion 64
9 Attaching Waistbands 71
Standard ‘Run On and Close Down’ Waistband Application 71 / Elasticated Waistband 76
10 Assembling & Attaching Pockets 79
Patch Pocket 80 / Shaped Pockets 84 / Jetted Pocket 88 / Welt Pocket 94
11 Sleeve Opening Construction 101
12 Assembling & Attaching Cuff s 109
Two Piece Cuff 110 / One Piece Cuff 113 / Attaching the Cuff to the Sleeve 115
13 Assembling & Attaching Collars 117
Collar Parts 117 / Stand Collar (Frequently Known as the Mandarin Collar) 118 /
Attaching the Stand Collar 121 / Flat Collar (Also Known as the Peter Pan Collar) 123 /
Attaching the Flat Collar 125 / One-Piece Shirt Collar 127 / Attaching the Shirt Collar 130
14 Sewing Problems 133
Stitch Formation Problems 133 / Fabric Distortion – Pucker 135 / Damage to the
Garment Assembly Terms Glossary 141
A general understanding of garment assembly techniques is essential knowledge that will allow all fashion and clothing design students to translate design ideas into reality. Mastery of the skills and intricacies of this subject area can be diffi cult to acquire by reading alone, therefore videos have been recorded to visually demonstrate essential assembly techniques, such as dart constructions, zip insertions, attaching waistbands, assembling and attaching collars and cuff s. Chapter 6 onwards also cover step by step assembly instructions for each process. The other chapters cover an understanding of stitches and seams, details of attachments that can be added to the sewing machine which improve the sewing process, an understanding of which needle and thread type to select for a particular application and how to overcome problems when sewing.
The fundamental requirements of fashion design are a sound knowledge of the basics of garment assembly together with an understanding of the garment assembly terms used in the fashion industry. Armed with this basic information and understanding you will be able to create your own garment designs.
A confident understanding of stitch and seam types, together with a sound knowledge of the basics of assembly, is fundamental to the creation of garments. Armed with this information and understanding you will be able to translate your design ideas into reality, your own three-dimensional design creations.
This book and the illustrative videos cover the essential technology required to get you started in garment assembly by developing your understanding of which stitch and seam type to select for a particular fabric and garment type, as well as the knowledge to construct a range of basic techniques to assemble entire garments using the correct components.
Every stage of constructing garment parts, such as inserting a zip, sewing a dart, assembling and attaching a shirt collar, etc., is covered in the subsequent chapters.
Joining fabric by means of sewing dates back to 28,000 BC, with the earliest known sewing tool: a hand crafted needle made from bone with a split head instead of an eye. The sewing machine was not developed until the 1700s but it did not go into mass production until the 1800s. This machine could produce 250 stitches per minute, which equated to the sewing capacity of fi ve people sewing by hand. Today, modern industrial sewing machines are automated and can exceed speeds of 5000 stitches per minute.
This book covers the techniques and tools used to construct garments for today ’s fashion industry using modern industrial equipment as well as an understanding of how to resolve sewing problems, such as seam pucker, etc., should they arise during the sewing process.