Perceived Brand Localness: An Empirical Study of the German Fashion Market
by Jorg Igelbrink
by Jorg Igelbrink
Table of Contents
1. Introduction ……………………………………………………………………… 1
1.1 Problem Statement……………………………………………………………… 1
1.2 Research Objective ………………………………………………………. 6
1.3 Course of the Investigation ………………………………………………………………………. 7
1.4 Conclusion: Introduction…………………………………………………………………………… 9
2. Literature Review …………………………………………………………………………………………. 11
2.1 Theoretical Reference Frame …………………………………………………………………. 11
2.1.1 Neo Behaviourism Theory …………………………………………………………….. 12
2.1.2 Dissonance Theory ………………………………………………………………………. 16
2.1.3 Semantic Network Theory …………………………………………………………….. 19
2.1.4 Consumer Culture Theory …………………………………………………………….. 20
2.2 State of Research ………………………………………………………………………………….. 20
2.2.1 Fashion Marketing ……………………………………………………………………….. 22
2.2.1.1 Fashion Marketing due to Consumer Behaviour
Perspective …………………………………………………………………….. 24
2.2.1.2 Fashion Marketing in terms of Supply-Based Perspective…… 31
2.2.1.3 Fashion Marketing due to Lifestyle Segmentation………………. 36
2.2.2 Brand Perception …………………………………………………………………………. 37
2.2.2.1 Brand Perception due to Coverage …………………………………… 37
2.2.2.2 Brand Perception due to Origin…………………………………………. 46
2.2.2.3 Brand Perception due to National and Individual Effects …….. 49
2.2.3 Social Media………………………………………………………………………………… 53
2.2.3.1 Fashion Influencer in the Context of Social Media ……………… 53
2.2.3.2 Fashion User Content Sources in the Context of Social
Media……………………………………………………………………………… 56
2.2.3.3 Controlling in the Context of Social Media …………………………. 58
2.3 Conclusion: Literature Review ………………………………………………………………… 60
3. Empirical Research and Method Approach…………………………………………………….. 67
3.1 Development of Research Objective and Research Questions………………….. 67
3.2 Research Methodology ………………………………………………………………………….. 69
3.3 Research Approach ……………………………………………………………………………….. 75
3.3.1 Research Method Design ……………………………………………………………… 76
3.3.1.1 Basis Structure of Sequential Exploratory Mixed-Method
Design ……………………………………………………………………………. 76
3.3.1.2 Phases of Sequential Explorative Mixed-Method Design…….. 80
3.3.2 Qualitative Exploratory Pre-Investigation ……………………………………….. 86
3.3.3 Qualitative Main Study………………………………………………………………….. 88
3.3.3.1 Quality Criteria of Study …………………………………………………… 88
3.3.3.2 Method of Analysis ………………………………………………………….. 90
3.3.3.2.1 Content-Structured Guided Interviews ……………………. 90
3.3.3.2.2 Process of Qualitative Content Data Analysis …………. 95
3.3.3.3 Purposive Sample Selection …………………………………………… 101
3.3.3.3.1 Basic Consideration and Foundation of Sample ……. 101
3.3.3.3.2 Sinus Milieus………………………………………………………. 102
3.3.3.3.3 Fashion Involvement …………………………………………… 106
3.3.3.3.4 Recruitment of Respondents ……………………………….. 109
3.3.3.3.5 Final Sample Description …………………………………….. 114
3.3.3.4 Data Collection………………………………………………………………. 117
3.3.3.5 Structure and Development of Categories ……………………….. 121
3.3.4 Quantitative Study………………………………………………………………………. 124
3.3.4.1 Research Approach of Social Media Analytics …………………. 124
3.3.4.2 Refinement of Research Questions…………………………………. 127
3.3.4.3 Quantitative Sample Selection ………………………………………… 131
3.3.4.3.1 Framework due to Quantitative Sample Selection …. 131
3.3.4.3.2 Quantitative Sample Selection due to Social
Media Analytics ………………………………………………….. 132
3.3.4.4 Method of Analysis due to Text Mining Process ……………….. 134
3.3.4.5 Model Configuration due to Social Media Analytics ………….. 136
3.3.4.6 Data Collection………………………………………………………………. 138
3.4 Antecedents of Different German Fashion Design Interpretation ……………… 144
3.5 Conclusion: Research Method Approach……………………………………………….. 151
4. Presentation of Results ………………………………………………………………………………. 153
4.1 Insights of Qualitative Pre-Investigation …………………………………………………. 153
4.2 Insights of Qualitative Data Analysis ……………………………………………………… 156
4.2.1 Education Level as an Impact on the Research Question………………. 156
4.2.2 Fashion Involvement as an Impact on the Research Question……….. 164
4.2.3 Associations towards Local Fashion Brands…………………………………. 169
4.2.4 Determination of Local Fashion Brands ……………………………………….. 174
4.2.5 Basic Attitude towards Local Fashion Brands ……………………………….. 192
4.2.6 Purchase Motivation towards Local Fashion Brands ……………………… 195
4.2.7 Attitude towards Local Fashion Brands ………………………………………… 215
4.2.7.1 Framework due to Relevant Characteristics …………………….. 215
4.2.7.2 Attitude Attributes of Local Fashion Brands ……………………… 224
4.2.8 Perception Bias towards Local Fashion Brands…………………………….. 234
4.2.8.1 Bias due to Perceived Fashion Brand Signals and
Symbols………………………………………………………………………… 234
4.2.8.2 Bias due to Different Cognitions about a Local
Fashion Brand……………………………………………………………….. 235
4.2.9 Interim Results of Qualitative Data Analysis …………………………………. 238
4.3 Insights of Quantitative Data Analysis……………………………………………………. 246
4.3.1 Insights due to Refined Research Question of Quantitative
Analysis …………………………………………………………………………………….. 246
4.3.1.1 Supplement Research Questions of Social Media
Analysis ………………………………………………………………………… 246
4.3.1.2 Preconditions of Quantitative Social Media Analysis…………. 247
4.3.1.3 Analysis and Insights of Realign Consumers’ Frequency
Distribution of Gender and Sentiments ……………………………. 250
4.3.1.4 Analysis and Insights of Realign Users’ Intention of
Recommendation…………………………………………………………… 258
4.3.1.5 Analysis and Insights of Realign Users’ Willingness
to Pay a Price Premium………………………………………………….. 263
4.3.1.6 Analysis and Insights of Realign Users’ Affiliation
towards a Specific Local Fashion Brand Segment ……………. 264
4.3.2 Interim Results of Quantitative Analysis ……………………………………….. 267
4.4 Consolidation of Results and Theory Derivation Due to PFBL …………………. 269
4.4.1 Overall Research Question on a Meta Level…………………………………. 269
4.4.2 Characteristics of Local Fashion Brands and Revealed
Associations ………………………………………………………………………………. 270
4.4.3 Impact of PFBL on Consumers’ LFB Association and Attitude ……….. 273
4.4.3.1 Influence due to Consumers’ Education Level………………….. 273
4.4.3.2 Influence due to Consumers’ Value Orientation ……………….. 274
4.4.3.3 Influence due to Consumers’ Fashion Involvement…………… 275
4.4.3.4 The Impact of German Fashion Culture …………………………… 275
4.4.3.5 Influence Due to Consumers’ Gender ……………………………… 276
4.4.3.6 Influence of Attributes on Consumers’ LFB Attitude………….. 277
4.4.4 Explanation Theory based on Consumers’ LFB Purchase
Motivation ………………………………………………………………………………….. 278
4.5 Discussion of Results …………………………………………………………………………… 284
4.5.1 Fashion Marketing regarding Consumer Behaviour ………………………. 285
4.5.2 Brand Perception and Perceived Brand Localness (PBL)………………. 286
4.5.3 Social Media with regard to Fashion Influencers …………………………… 287
4.6 Conclusion: Presentation of Results………………………………………………………. 288
5. Conclusion…………………………………………………………………………………………………. 289
5.1 Summary of Chapters ………………………………………………………………………….. 289
5.2 Contribution to Theory and Practice ………………………………………………………. 290
5.3 Critical Appraisal and Opportunities for Further Research……………………….. 295
5.4 Implication for Theory and Practice ……………………………………………………….. 297
List of References ………………………………………………………………………………………….. 299
1.1 Problem Statement……………………………………………………………… 1
1.2 Research Objective ………………………………………………………. 6
1.3 Course of the Investigation ………………………………………………………………………. 7
1.4 Conclusion: Introduction…………………………………………………………………………… 9
2. Literature Review …………………………………………………………………………………………. 11
2.1 Theoretical Reference Frame …………………………………………………………………. 11
2.1.1 Neo Behaviourism Theory …………………………………………………………….. 12
2.1.2 Dissonance Theory ………………………………………………………………………. 16
2.1.3 Semantic Network Theory …………………………………………………………….. 19
2.1.4 Consumer Culture Theory …………………………………………………………….. 20
2.2 State of Research ………………………………………………………………………………….. 20
2.2.1 Fashion Marketing ……………………………………………………………………….. 22
2.2.1.1 Fashion Marketing due to Consumer Behaviour
Perspective …………………………………………………………………….. 24
2.2.1.2 Fashion Marketing in terms of Supply-Based Perspective…… 31
2.2.1.3 Fashion Marketing due to Lifestyle Segmentation………………. 36
2.2.2 Brand Perception …………………………………………………………………………. 37
2.2.2.1 Brand Perception due to Coverage …………………………………… 37
2.2.2.2 Brand Perception due to Origin…………………………………………. 46
2.2.2.3 Brand Perception due to National and Individual Effects …….. 49
2.2.3 Social Media………………………………………………………………………………… 53
2.2.3.1 Fashion Influencer in the Context of Social Media ……………… 53
2.2.3.2 Fashion User Content Sources in the Context of Social
Media……………………………………………………………………………… 56
2.2.3.3 Controlling in the Context of Social Media …………………………. 58
2.3 Conclusion: Literature Review ………………………………………………………………… 60
3. Empirical Research and Method Approach…………………………………………………….. 67
3.1 Development of Research Objective and Research Questions………………….. 67
3.2 Research Methodology ………………………………………………………………………….. 69
3.3 Research Approach ……………………………………………………………………………….. 75
3.3.1 Research Method Design ……………………………………………………………… 76
3.3.1.1 Basis Structure of Sequential Exploratory Mixed-Method
Design ……………………………………………………………………………. 76
3.3.1.2 Phases of Sequential Explorative Mixed-Method Design…….. 80
3.3.2 Qualitative Exploratory Pre-Investigation ……………………………………….. 86
3.3.3 Qualitative Main Study………………………………………………………………….. 88
3.3.3.1 Quality Criteria of Study …………………………………………………… 88
3.3.3.2 Method of Analysis ………………………………………………………….. 90
3.3.3.2.1 Content-Structured Guided Interviews ……………………. 90
3.3.3.2.2 Process of Qualitative Content Data Analysis …………. 95
3.3.3.3 Purposive Sample Selection …………………………………………… 101
3.3.3.3.1 Basic Consideration and Foundation of Sample ……. 101
3.3.3.3.2 Sinus Milieus………………………………………………………. 102
3.3.3.3.3 Fashion Involvement …………………………………………… 106
3.3.3.3.4 Recruitment of Respondents ……………………………….. 109
3.3.3.3.5 Final Sample Description …………………………………….. 114
3.3.3.4 Data Collection………………………………………………………………. 117
3.3.3.5 Structure and Development of Categories ……………………….. 121
3.3.4 Quantitative Study………………………………………………………………………. 124
3.3.4.1 Research Approach of Social Media Analytics …………………. 124
3.3.4.2 Refinement of Research Questions…………………………………. 127
3.3.4.3 Quantitative Sample Selection ………………………………………… 131
3.3.4.3.1 Framework due to Quantitative Sample Selection …. 131
3.3.4.3.2 Quantitative Sample Selection due to Social
Media Analytics ………………………………………………….. 132
3.3.4.4 Method of Analysis due to Text Mining Process ……………….. 134
3.3.4.5 Model Configuration due to Social Media Analytics ………….. 136
3.3.4.6 Data Collection………………………………………………………………. 138
3.4 Antecedents of Different German Fashion Design Interpretation ……………… 144
3.5 Conclusion: Research Method Approach……………………………………………….. 151
4. Presentation of Results ………………………………………………………………………………. 153
4.1 Insights of Qualitative Pre-Investigation …………………………………………………. 153
4.2 Insights of Qualitative Data Analysis ……………………………………………………… 156
4.2.1 Education Level as an Impact on the Research Question………………. 156
4.2.2 Fashion Involvement as an Impact on the Research Question……….. 164
4.2.3 Associations towards Local Fashion Brands…………………………………. 169
4.2.4 Determination of Local Fashion Brands ……………………………………….. 174
4.2.5 Basic Attitude towards Local Fashion Brands ……………………………….. 192
4.2.6 Purchase Motivation towards Local Fashion Brands ……………………… 195
4.2.7 Attitude towards Local Fashion Brands ………………………………………… 215
4.2.7.1 Framework due to Relevant Characteristics …………………….. 215
4.2.7.2 Attitude Attributes of Local Fashion Brands ……………………… 224
4.2.8 Perception Bias towards Local Fashion Brands…………………………….. 234
4.2.8.1 Bias due to Perceived Fashion Brand Signals and
Symbols………………………………………………………………………… 234
4.2.8.2 Bias due to Different Cognitions about a Local
Fashion Brand……………………………………………………………….. 235
4.2.9 Interim Results of Qualitative Data Analysis …………………………………. 238
4.3 Insights of Quantitative Data Analysis……………………………………………………. 246
4.3.1 Insights due to Refined Research Question of Quantitative
Analysis …………………………………………………………………………………….. 246
4.3.1.1 Supplement Research Questions of Social Media
Analysis ………………………………………………………………………… 246
4.3.1.2 Preconditions of Quantitative Social Media Analysis…………. 247
4.3.1.3 Analysis and Insights of Realign Consumers’ Frequency
Distribution of Gender and Sentiments ……………………………. 250
4.3.1.4 Analysis and Insights of Realign Users’ Intention of
Recommendation…………………………………………………………… 258
4.3.1.5 Analysis and Insights of Realign Users’ Willingness
to Pay a Price Premium………………………………………………….. 263
4.3.1.6 Analysis and Insights of Realign Users’ Affiliation
towards a Specific Local Fashion Brand Segment ……………. 264
4.3.2 Interim Results of Quantitative Analysis ……………………………………….. 267
4.4 Consolidation of Results and Theory Derivation Due to PFBL …………………. 269
4.4.1 Overall Research Question on a Meta Level…………………………………. 269
4.4.2 Characteristics of Local Fashion Brands and Revealed
Associations ………………………………………………………………………………. 270
4.4.3 Impact of PFBL on Consumers’ LFB Association and Attitude ……….. 273
4.4.3.1 Influence due to Consumers’ Education Level………………….. 273
4.4.3.2 Influence due to Consumers’ Value Orientation ……………….. 274
4.4.3.3 Influence due to Consumers’ Fashion Involvement…………… 275
4.4.3.4 The Impact of German Fashion Culture …………………………… 275
4.4.3.5 Influence Due to Consumers’ Gender ……………………………… 276
4.4.3.6 Influence of Attributes on Consumers’ LFB Attitude………….. 277
4.4.4 Explanation Theory based on Consumers’ LFB Purchase
Motivation ………………………………………………………………………………….. 278
4.5 Discussion of Results …………………………………………………………………………… 284
4.5.1 Fashion Marketing regarding Consumer Behaviour ………………………. 285
4.5.2 Brand Perception and Perceived Brand Localness (PBL)………………. 286
4.5.3 Social Media with regard to Fashion Influencers …………………………… 287
4.6 Conclusion: Presentation of Results………………………………………………………. 288
5. Conclusion…………………………………………………………………………………………………. 289
5.1 Summary of Chapters ………………………………………………………………………….. 289
5.2 Contribution to Theory and Practice ………………………………………………………. 290
5.3 Critical Appraisal and Opportunities for Further Research……………………….. 295
5.4 Implication for Theory and Practice ……………………………………………………….. 297
List of References ………………………………………………………………………………………….. 299