Contents
Foreword ix
Preface xi
1 Introduction 1
1.1 Importance of quality characterisation 1
1.2 Current scenario 2
1.3 Essential elements of quality characterisation 3
1.4 Role of regulatory and specialty tests in quality characterisation 5
1.5 Customer satisfaction related to quality 6
References 6
2 Quality protocols and performance standards of apparels and related accessories 8
2.1 Introduction 8
2.2 Protocols for apparel testing 9
2.3 Various performance standards of fabrics used in apparel 13
2.4 Various performance standards in apparel 46
References 91
3 Benchmarking of quality in apparel 93
3.1 General requirements 93
3.2 Flammability requirement of apparel for export 95
3.3 Performance in colour fastness of apparel 96
3.4 Characterisation of apparel durability 98
3.5 Performance and functional properties of apparel 98
References 101
4 Importance of flammability, care label and fibre content of apparel 103
4.1 Essential standards and regulations 103
4.2 Flammability 103
4.3 Care labelling of garments 108
4.4 Fibre products identification 120
References 123
5 Safety issues for different accessories in children garment 125
5.1 Importance of safety issues 125
5.2 Small parts – choking hazards 126
5.3 Metal fasteners 126
5.4 Zipper fasteners 128
5.5 Dungaree clips (hasps) and sliders 129
5.6 D-rings 130
5.7 Functional and non-functional drawstrings, cords/ties 131
5.8 Toggles 134
5.9 Fixed bows 135
5.10 Buttons 135
5.11 Pom-poms and fringe 136
5.12 Decorative trims and embellishments 136
5.13 Bead 137
5.14 Sequins 137
5.15 Jewel 138
5.16 Heat transfer diamante (rhinstone) and stud guidelines 139
References 139
6 Case studies of safety review in children garment 140
6.1 Introduction 140
6.2 Safety review 140
6.3 Evaluation of restricted substances and hazardous components testing for children’s products 156
6.4 General wearing apparel flammability requirements 159
6.5 Children’s sleepwear/loungewear flammability requirements 159
References 159
7 Product recall in children garment 161
7.1 Reason of product recall 161
7.2 Case studies on product recall 161
7.3 Necessity of recall 172
References 172
8 Role of different stakeholders in the quality of apparel 175
8.1 Introduction 175
8.2 Role of a retailer 176
8.3 Role of a buying agent 177
8.4 Role of a factory 177
8.5 Role of a third party laboratory 178
8.6 Concluding remarks 178
References 179
Preface
This book arose out of a need, when interacting with the apparel fecundity at different parts of the world, for a comprehensive guideline on the quality of various merchandise products to which different stakeholders could be referred. The approach to the subject and the topics covered are those, which have been developed over the years on the global platform in apparel sectors by retailers and regulatory bodies. The apparel industry has had a long history of producing different merchandise products in accordance with the necessity of various classes of consumers and the nature of their utilisation. Due to this various quality parameters have been evaluated and benchmarked by following international standard norms to match the performance requirements of different apparel products. This book is then a distillation of these collective efforts and hopefully a concise document of wisdom inculcated over the years in the evaluation of quality of apparel.
The book is aimed at textile and apparel industry professionals, retailers, factory heads, buying offices and students intending to join the industry in the areas of quality assurance. In order to produce and deliver better quality products to the customer adherence to the appropriate specification, standard, law and regulation applicable for the merchandise is important. Thus, the emphasis throughout the book is on standard and mandatory regulatory test methods. Many of the apparel merchandise benchmarked are intended to evaluate the same property but specification and regulation may vary because of their different export destinations. It is worthwhile to mention that when referring to any tests and regulations to consult an upto- date version of the relevant document. This is because the actual standard contains the detailed information, which is not possible to cover in a book of this nature, and furthermore international standards and regulations are constantly being revised and updated due to the change of performance expectations and better consumer protection.
Safety of children’s apparel has been given more importance in quality during recent years by the apparel retailers in the globe but is the least discussed subject available in the published literature. The commitment towards this important aspect of quality is expected from the apparel manufacturers to supply and meet the requirement of global retailers. Failure to focus on the necessary safety issues results in product recall. Thus, the book covers about the use of different accessories, which can be attached in children’s apparel with the associated safety review product evaluation and, regulatory approaches.
Dr. Subrata Das